Hey guys, had the pleasure of doing my own Mr.5 version of an intake last weekend, and had a couple of interesting things come up that may be useful to a few of you.
First of all, there are a bunch of people saying that you can't do the Mr. 5 intake if you have forge DV's and a charge pipe with male DV connectors. It locates the DV's right in the traditional Mr.5 flow path, so they're in the way. Well, that's correct, but it's pretty easily worked around. A few things though...
1: The small rubber joining hoses to mount Forge DV's to the BMS charge pipe aren't the best quality. Maybe it's the AZ heat but I found my radiator clamps partly melted through the rubber. Sure, I'm guessing I was a little aggressive in applying torque in the hopes of no boost leaks, but the things just plain melted. This becomes a boost leak quickly.
Additionally, those of you with Forge DV's and troublesome vaccum/boost issues, rebuild them. I think Forge machined several of the pistons incorrectly and they didn't seal well. I articulated this to Forge, and they sent me a rebuild kit. I noted that the rebuild kit they (eventually) sent me has pistons with a built-in rubber gasket on the DV main sealing surface.
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2: The forge DV's are in the way. You can remedy this by rooting through the radiator hose section at your local auto parts store until you find a "J" shaped hose that you think will work. This puts one of the dv's under the stock airbox, which then clears room for the Mr.5 intake mod. The serial number of the hose I used, from an autozone, was Dayco part number B70531 "curved radiator hose". It was about $7. I used the long remaining straight piece to give a little more room to the aftmost DV.
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3: I calculated that this was the largest air filter I could fit in the fender. That's sort of correct. I would highly recommend for blood pressure reasons to go with one size smaller. I had to partly crush the filter to make it fit and buttoning everything up was definitely a bit of a trick. That said, it dwarfs the BMS DCI. I used spectre part #8708 to join the basic McMaster Carr hose to the filter. (3" inlet on the filter to 3" hose, full 3" all the way back to the airbox).
![Click here to enlarge]()
4. I had a little extra heat tape so I used it.
![Click here to enlarge]()
As far as results go, thus far it does a much better job of controlling inlet air temps, especially at idle/stop and go traffic, and heat soak is far less of an issue, however, I'll go into that good stuff once I'm done getting all the info and will make a separate post for the inevitable DCI vs. Mr.5 comparisons. The thing that makes this unique is the hot climate I'm in...
First of all, there are a bunch of people saying that you can't do the Mr. 5 intake if you have forge DV's and a charge pipe with male DV connectors. It locates the DV's right in the traditional Mr.5 flow path, so they're in the way. Well, that's correct, but it's pretty easily worked around. A few things though...
1: The small rubber joining hoses to mount Forge DV's to the BMS charge pipe aren't the best quality. Maybe it's the AZ heat but I found my radiator clamps partly melted through the rubber. Sure, I'm guessing I was a little aggressive in applying torque in the hopes of no boost leaks, but the things just plain melted. This becomes a boost leak quickly.
Additionally, those of you with Forge DV's and troublesome vaccum/boost issues, rebuild them. I think Forge machined several of the pistons incorrectly and they didn't seal well. I articulated this to Forge, and they sent me a rebuild kit. I noted that the rebuild kit they (eventually) sent me has pistons with a built-in rubber gasket on the DV main sealing surface.
2: The forge DV's are in the way. You can remedy this by rooting through the radiator hose section at your local auto parts store until you find a "J" shaped hose that you think will work. This puts one of the dv's under the stock airbox, which then clears room for the Mr.5 intake mod. The serial number of the hose I used, from an autozone, was Dayco part number B70531 "curved radiator hose". It was about $7. I used the long remaining straight piece to give a little more room to the aftmost DV.
3: I calculated that this was the largest air filter I could fit in the fender. That's sort of correct. I would highly recommend for blood pressure reasons to go with one size smaller. I had to partly crush the filter to make it fit and buttoning everything up was definitely a bit of a trick. That said, it dwarfs the BMS DCI. I used spectre part #8708 to join the basic McMaster Carr hose to the filter. (3" inlet on the filter to 3" hose, full 3" all the way back to the airbox).
4. I had a little extra heat tape so I used it.
As far as results go, thus far it does a much better job of controlling inlet air temps, especially at idle/stop and go traffic, and heat soak is far less of an issue, however, I'll go into that good stuff once I'm done getting all the info and will make a separate post for the inevitable DCI vs. Mr.5 comparisons. The thing that makes this unique is the hot climate I'm in...