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NEW N54 DCT 1/4 Mile ET RECORD !

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0
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21 Feet above sea level
75°F Temps
79% Relative Humidty
DA 1188 Feet

Tuner: Lenny @ RENNtech
PSI: 15-16
96 Octane (93 mix)
No Weight Reduction, No DRs, NO Meth, Legal in Most States

11.90 ET @ 114.29 New ET record for the "N54 DCT"

Dragtimes (Beta) ET & MPH Correction : 11.87 @ 114.67 MPH Click here to enlarge

Click here to enlarge

Convert N54 to A2W (Air to Water) Cooled by Air Conditioner Refrigerant

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So I made a short post before but it got moved to general. To continue in a more N54 related way, I will say that I don't know a lot about dealing with refrigerants and know only a small bit about Air to Water Intercoolers.

Here is my inspiration:



So a basic A2W kit would include:

A2W Charge Cooler
Water Pump
Water Lines
Custom Charge Piping
A2W Heat Exchanger
Electrical Wires, Switch / Integration

Now if we wanted to make this inline with the existing A2A intercooler, it would have to go most likely after the FMIC and be mounted in some of the free space or inline where the chargepipe is with a bullet style A2W intercooler(Charge cooler). I'm curious what type of extra restriction this would pose on the system and what kind of extra pressure drop we would see. From the units I've looked at, they approximate about 1-1.5 PSI drop.

In Addition to putting this inline with the FMIC, we would need an A2W Heat exchanger to shed off the heat absorbed from the A2W Charge cooler, most likely mounted in front of the FMIC, in a air duct on the Driver side, or a vertically stacked FMIC/Heat Exchanger setup.

Lastly, if we decided to use the Air conditioner's refrigerant to super cool the A2w intercooler, we would need a Evaporator coil/core to cool the water.

The combinations here could be:

1) A2W Heat Exchanger + A2W Intercooler - This eliminates the A2A FMIC
2) A2A Intercooler + A2W Heat Exchanger + A2W Intercooler - This retains the FMIC and adds normal A2W Intercooler and Heat Exchanger
3) A2A Intercooler + A2W Intercooler + R2W Evaporator (Refrigerant to Water) - A2A IC is required when the AC is off to cool the intake charge
4) A2A Intercooler +A2W Intercooler + A2W Heat Exchanger + R2W Evaporator -This is the most complicated setup of all of them and the one I've been thinking about the most.

Questions to solve:

1) How much extra refrigerant plumbing would be added and therefore how much extra refrigerant would be necessary in the system?
2) How much additional stress does this add to the current Refrigerant system with each setup
3) Does this additional stress put our compressor at risk by not being able to keep up and cool the refrigerant in the condenser and potentially sending more hot refrigerant back to the compressor?
4) What kind of extra condensation would this produce and how to manage it
5) What type of electrical is going to be required with each setup to run the A2W intercooler separately from the Cabin AC and how to turn on and off the water pump depending on if there is an A2A intercooler to cool the charge if it happens to be off


Please comment. Just searching through ebay these parts are not all that expensive.

A2W Intercooler with 3" In/Out: $100
Click here to enlarge

R2W Evaporator coil, Read from Packless: http://www.packless.com/products/chi...ator-coils.htm
Click here to enlarge

And Water Pump: $140
Click here to enlarge

A2W Heat Exchanger: $46
Click here to enlarge
Attached Images
     

Alpina B3 flash Part II: DIY for NOT-working paddles shifters after flash

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The Alpina B3 flash has been a huge success so far for performance gains as well as fixing many issues that has plagued the N54 platform for years. It has undoubtedly given the performance gains in which everyone could enjoy. The only minor glitch during the flashing was on new model years in which once the car is flashed the paddle shifters now longer worked, unlike the earlier build model years which didn't exhibit this. This was quite bothersome to me so I had to find a fix as it seemed unthinkable it wouldn't work. The test mule used was a 06/09 build in which Wedge1967 and I helped to fix via Team Viewer because the car was bricked and inoperative due to a botched configuration and files..After many hours getting the car back to life we flashed it to the Alpina B3 flash, and ofcourse the paddle shifters no longer worked. I went back the next morning to work on getting the paddle shifters to work...Here is your solution!

You guys need to use NCSexpert and have the latest SPdaten 48.1 loaded up to both NCSexpert and Ediabas. There are tons of literature on this so do a search on it. If you not comfortable doing this or the actual coding, you can find a local coder and pay to have this coded....

Warning: If you dont have the Spdaten 48.1 udated correctly after doing this coding the car will be Dead!!!

************************************************** ****************************************
There are 3 Parts to this DIY to get the paddles working after Flashing the Alpina B3 flash


******PART 1******

0-Start ignition with cluster lights on
1-Load NCSexpert
2-File (choose your coding file the one that manipulate the FSW_PSW) click ok
3-(F1) Vin/ZCS/FA
4-(F3) SG ausw
5-Choose E89 chassis click ok
6-Choose CAS click ok
7-(F6) Back
8-(F4) Read ECU and pick EGS module click ok
9-wait till nettodat file pops up and then close it out
10-goto work folder and open FSW_PSW.TRC file
11-You will see this and we want to find PADDLES and change wert_00 to wert_01

Click here to enlarge

12- Save the file you just edited as FSW_PSW.man
13-go back into NCSexpert
14-(F2) Change job and find SG_coderign
15-(F3) Execute JOB
16-Close out the NCSexpert software


******PART 2******


Go back to Part I
This time we want to change PADDLES back to wert_00 on step 9


******PART 3******


1-Load NCSexpert
2-File choose EXPERTMODE
3-(F1) Vin/ZCS/FA
4-(F3) SG Ausw
5-Choose E89 chassis click ok
6-Choose CAS
7-(F6) Back
8-(F4) Read ECU
9-Choose EGS and click ok and wait till nettodat file pops up then close it
10-(F3) Execute Job
11-Close out NCSexpert
12-Shut off car take key out and lock the door
13-Start the car


At this point 3 things can happen:


**A)There are no errors and the car starts fine and the paddles are working and your happy!


**B)The car starts but then when you drive off, the shifting of gears are all screwy and changing correctly.


**C)The car starts but you get the dreaded GEAR error and it wont even go into drive at all..
.

If you have either B or C then you issue is the update of the Spdaten 48.1 was incorrectly done...Go back and check installation and start again


I have worked long and hard to get this Alpina B3 flash to where it is now so everyone can enjoy this without any glitches. If you feel that my DIY on Winkfp for flashing Alpina B3 flash and this DIY helped in anyway, and you would like to make a small contribution for my efforts, I would be grateful and appreciate it..If not thats cool too.

My paypal addy is
ccnoner@aol.com


Enjoy the flash!
Attached Images
 

Testing e-tune map from PTF - did 60-130 in 8.18 s in 4th gear

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Where I live it snows in the winter. Most, if not all of the time. Which means that I have not been able to test out my car after I got the DME software updated to the latest version (I8A0S for my MSD80).

Well, yesterday the roads were finally almost fit for driving, so I started testing. I ended up spending all the day testing, and using up most of Dzenno's time as well.

We finally ended up with a very powerful E50 tune with clean logs, boosting ~20.5 psi midrange, ~19 psi at peak hp and ~17.5 psi near redline (6800 rpm). Neither of us could quite believe how powerful the runs looked for a full weight car with a heavy driver (250+ lbs), so on the last few runs I decided to put the Performance Box in the car to see it the road was indeed flat. It turned out there was a decline of just 0.09%

As a bonus I discovered that the car did 100-200 kmh in 7.07 seconds and 60-130 mph in just 8.18 seconds, in ONE gear (4th) on a flat road with crappy rear tyres. Now this would have also never happened if I hadn't had the defiv diff lockdown kit mounted, the rear end was just so planted, even in 30F temps and with crappy tyres.

I guess since I bought both my COBB AP and e-tune maps from PTF as well as my defiv diff lockdown kit in group buys in here, some credit to Bimmerboost is also in place :handgestures-thumb:

Cars specs are updated in the sig. I've attached a couple of pics. Sticky please resize if neccessary
Attached Images
  

Walnut Blasting, plugs, and bonus: rims

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Decided to share my experience with some "maintenance mods" that I had done. First up is a very thorough walnut blasting, done by the friendly people over at Performance BMW in Chapel Hill, NC for a very fair price of $400.

Keeping carbon build-up is an important part of making sure your N54 / N55 is running smoothly, and will make a noticeable difference in how your car performs.


I've been running methanol in my car for about 20k miles, and while it has been decently good at keeping my valves clean, take a look at how they looked when we got her opened up:

Click here to enlargeClick here to enlarge


Aaaand the after:

Click here to enlarge
Click here to enlarge


The difference was immediate, but I couldn't really put the car through its paces because of the increasingly bad misfires I was having. Plugs were overdue. I bought a set of OE plugs for about $90 from the dealership, and a tool online for ~$20. An hour later:

Click here to enlarge


Long story short: between the walnut blasting and the new plugs, my car feels brand new. Well, better than brand new, because its modded. Basically, the car has never been smoother or more fun to drive. I HIGHLY recommend doing both of these relatively simple tasks when you hit 40k miles. Plugs should be every 10-20k miles, and walnut blasting every 30k-40k miles, depending on how hard your car is modded and how hard you drive.

Methanol and OCCs can also help extend the intervals for walnut blasting.



Bonus: New VMR701s

Click here to enlarge
Click here to enlarge





Cheers!
Attached Images
       

Snappety, Snap Snap!

$
0
0
Today, in my infinite wisdom and against all prudent judgement, I decided to replace injector number 3 this afternoon. This exercise is nothing new to me. I've done this two more times already.

So I get busy and then I managed to snap the ASA bolt that holds the injector bracket:

Click here to enlarge

I as able to make 2 complete turns of the bolt before it snapped off.

So this is a pretty messed up situation right now as cylinders 3 and 4 will have no compression at all. This means I can't drive the car.

My suspicion is that in the cold weather (4 degrees Centigrade) there was enough difference in contraction between the aluminium head and the steel ASA bolt. The bolt probably decided to dig in the head and carve a new thread in it. Then it got stuck and then I snapped it off.


Suggestions, opinions and ideas are highly appreciated at this point.

25k+ Tuned Miles on Stock Plugs

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My plugs were first changed by the Dealer at 41k miles right before I bought my car. I installed my cobb within 5k miles upon purchase, and quickly went to stage 2+ after only a month or so at stage 1. Currently I have 71K miles and I easily have over 20k miles running ~40% e85 mixed with CA 91 octane. I never had a single misfire, but have PTF making a custom tune for me and felt like changing the plugs seeing as they had so many miles on them. For new plugs I went with the NGK 5992 ILZKBR7A-8G PTF recommends and so far so good. Car fired right up and pulls hard to redline. I need to take some logs and send them in to Jake so we can finish my Protune. The NGK 5992's were very easy to gap, and was my first time ever having to gap a spark plug. The only thing I forgot was I don't own a torque wrench so I wasn't able to torque the new plugs to the 17ft lbs your supposed to. So tomorrow I'll be buying a wrench needless to say. Old plugs look pretty good to me. Plugs from left to right are 6,5,4,3,2,1
Attached Images
  

Stage 2 Update / Stage 3 Pricing

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Hey guys,

Stage 2:

Ok so I have a confirmation that the remainder of these parts are shipping tomorrow or Thursday and we will be seeing them early to mid next week. What this means is. Take delivery, hone the turbine housings to fit the new bigger shafts on the flappers, weld the flapper and arm in the housing, assemble and ship. I should have all betas shipped by next Friday without issue.... THANK ALL OF YOU FOR BEING SO PATIENT.

Stage 3:

Pricing is almost done and will be released along with numbers when we get some. I am not going to release the pricing until I get some solid numbers to go with them. I will say we will be doing an intro price for the first 5 kits with a 50% deposit required, this will put us into production mode. If the interest is not there, it is going to drive the price higher but we will still make the kit on a one by one basis if people want them.

Have a great day everyone.

E92/E93 IX conversion?

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I'm not a huge fan of AWD, I read that it may have been available on the 328 E92's, but whats stopping anyone from putting the Xdrive drivetrain on an E92? I'm curious whats different besides the transfercase and front suspension and TCU. I'm sure there are many E92/3 owners that wish they could get AWD.

We know that the 6hp19/21 transmission will mount up with the xdrive since it does so on the E90's, so my curiosity is getting the best of me here.

EDIT: I'm reading now that the 335i E92 came out with xdrive in 09. So now i'm REALLY wonder whats up with the E93 not getting it besides weight.

how much can i get for oem cats?

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Quick question. how much should i get for oem down pipes? and where can i sell them? i tried posting them on the for sale section but don't have any rep points. so can someone help me out on how to go about selling these. I tried posting them on ebay and my post was removed. they have 35k on them and are off a 2007 e92.

Cobb users in the Bay Area. Favor for Stage 3

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Does anyone in the bay area have an Access port I could borrow for the weekend. Cobb is sending us one and it was supposed to be here today and did not show and we were supposed to start tuning this weekend as the clutch is broken in. Please let me know, as we can't get going until PTF has the ROM ID and I have an access port in hand. Thanks in Advance.

coilovers HELP!!

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Hi guys..im purchasing a new set of coilovers either sonic or bc for my e90! ....cnt decide which ones are better?

DIY: ZF6HP21/19 Valvebody removal video

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Here is a Quick video i made on how to remove and re install the valve body. hope this helps. hopefully people with the older pre-03/07 valvebodys can maybe try to upgrade to a newer one and get the flash. best of luck to whoever tries it and update us with your progress!

NEW N54 DCT 1/4 Mile ET RECORD !

$
0
0
21 Feet above sea level
75°F Temps
79% Relative Humidty
DA 1188 Feet

Tuner: Lenny @ RENNtech
PSI: 15-16
96 Octane (93 mix)
No Weight Reduction, No DRs, NO Meth, Legal in Most States

11.90 ET @ 114.29 New ET record for the "N54 DCT"

Dragtimes (Beta) ET & MPH Correction : 11.87 @ 114.67 MPH Click here to enlarge

Click here to enlarge

Convert N54 to A2W (Air to Water) Cooled by Air Conditioner Refrigerant

$
0
0
So I made a short post before but it got moved to general. To continue in a more N54 related way, I will say that I don't know a lot about dealing with refrigerants and know only a small bit about Air to Water Intercoolers.

Here is my inspiration:



So a basic A2W kit would include:

A2W Charge Cooler
Water Pump
Water Lines
Custom Charge Piping
A2W Heat Exchanger
Electrical Wires, Switch / Integration

Now if we wanted to make this inline with the existing A2A intercooler, it would have to go most likely after the FMIC and be mounted in some of the free space or inline where the chargepipe is with a bullet style A2W intercooler(Charge cooler). I'm curious what type of extra restriction this would pose on the system and what kind of extra pressure drop we would see. From the units I've looked at, they approximate about 1-1.5 PSI drop.

In Addition to putting this inline with the FMIC, we would need an A2W Heat exchanger to shed off the heat absorbed from the A2W Charge cooler, most likely mounted in front of the FMIC, in a air duct on the Driver side, or a vertically stacked FMIC/Heat Exchanger setup.

Lastly, if we decided to use the Air conditioner's refrigerant to super cool the A2w intercooler, we would need a Evaporator coil/core to cool the water.

The combinations here could be:

1) A2W Heat Exchanger + A2W Intercooler - This eliminates the A2A FMIC
2) A2A Intercooler + A2W Heat Exchanger + A2W Intercooler - This retains the FMIC and adds normal A2W Intercooler and Heat Exchanger
3) A2A Intercooler + A2W Intercooler + R2W Evaporator (Refrigerant to Water) - A2A IC is required when the AC is off to cool the intake charge
4) A2A Intercooler +A2W Intercooler + A2W Heat Exchanger + R2W Evaporator -This is the most complicated setup of all of them and the one I've been thinking about the most.

Questions to solve:

1) How much extra refrigerant plumbing would be added and therefore how much extra refrigerant would be necessary in the system?
2) How much additional stress does this add to the current Refrigerant system with each setup
3) Does this additional stress put our compressor at risk by not being able to keep up and cool the refrigerant in the condenser and potentially sending more hot refrigerant back to the compressor?
4) What kind of extra condensation would this produce and how to manage it
5) What type of electrical is going to be required with each setup to run the A2W intercooler separately from the Cabin AC and how to turn on and off the water pump depending on if there is an A2A intercooler to cool the charge if it happens to be off


Please comment. Just searching through ebay these parts are not all that expensive.

A2W Intercooler with 3" In/Out: $100
Click here to enlarge

R2W Evaporator coil, Read from Packless: http://www.packless.com/products/chi...ator-coils.htm
Click here to enlarge

And Water Pump: $140
Click here to enlarge

A2W Heat Exchanger: $46
Click here to enlarge
Attached Images
     

Alpina B3 flash Part II: DIY for NOT-working paddles shifters after flash

$
0
0
The Alpina B3 flash has been a huge success so far for performance gains as well as fixing many issues that has plagued the N54 platform for years. It has undoubtedly given the performance gains in which everyone could enjoy. The only minor glitch during the flashing was on new model years in which once the car is flashed the paddle shifters now longer worked, unlike the earlier build model years which didn't exhibit this. This was quite bothersome to me so I had to find a fix as it seemed unthinkable it wouldn't work. The test mule used was a 06/09 build in which Wedge1967 and I helped to fix via Team Viewer because the car was bricked and inoperative due to a botched configuration and files..After many hours getting the car back to life we flashed it to the Alpina B3 flash, and ofcourse the paddle shifters no longer worked. I went back the next morning to work on getting the paddle shifters to work...Here is your solution!

You guys need to use NCSexpert and have the latest SPdaten 48.1 loaded up to both NCSexpert and Ediabas. There are tons of literature on this so do a search on it. If you not comfortable doing this or the actual coding, you can find a local coder and pay to have this coded....

Warning: If you dont have the Spdaten 48.1 udated correctly after doing this coding the car will be Dead!!!

************************************************** ****************************************
There are 3 Parts to this DIY to get the paddles working after Flashing the Alpina B3 flash


******PART 1******

0-Start ignition with cluster lights on
1-Load NCSexpert
2-File (choose your coding file the one that manipulate the FSW_PSW) click ok
3-(F1) Vin/ZCS/FA
4-(F3) SG ausw
5-Choose E89 chassis click ok
6-Choose CAS click ok
7-(F6) Back
8-(F4) Read ECU and pick EGS module click ok
9-wait till nettodat file pops up and then close it out
10-goto work folder and open FSW_PSW.TRC file
11-You will see this and we want to find PADDLES and change wert_00 to wert_01

Click here to enlarge

12- Save the file you just edited as FSW_PSW.man
13-go back into NCSexpert
14-(F2) Change job and find SG_coderign
15-(F3) Execute JOB
16-Close out the NCSexpert software


******PART 2******


Go back to Part I
This time we want to change PADDLES back to wert_00 on step 9


******PART 3******


1-Load NCSexpert
2-File choose EXPERTMODE
3-(F1) Vin/ZCS/FA
4-(F3) SG Ausw
5-Choose E89 chassis click ok
6-Choose CAS
7-(F6) Back
8-(F4) Read ECU
9-Choose EGS and click ok and wait till nettodat file pops up then close it
10-(F3) Execute Job
11-Close out NCSexpert
12-Shut off car take key out and lock the door
13-Start the car


At this point 3 things can happen:


**A)There are no errors and the car starts fine and the paddles are working and your happy!


**B)The car starts but then when you drive off, the shifting of gears are all screwy and changing correctly.


**C)The car starts but you get the dreaded GEAR error and it wont even go into drive at all..
.

If you have either B or C then you issue is the update of the Spdaten 48.1 was incorrectly done...Go back and check installation and start again


I have worked long and hard to get this Alpina B3 flash to where it is now so everyone can enjoy this without any glitches. If you feel that my DIY on Winkfp for flashing Alpina B3 flash and this DIY helped in anyway, and you would like to make a small contribution for my efforts, I would be grateful and appreciate it..If not thats cool too.

My paypal addy is
ccnoner@aol.com


Enjoy the flash!
Attached Images
 

Testing e-tune map from PTF - did 60-130 in 8.18 s in 4th gear

$
0
0
Where I live it snows in the winter. Most, if not all of the time. Which means that I have not been able to test out my car after I got the DME software updated to the latest version (I8A0S for my MSD80).

Well, yesterday the roads were finally almost fit for driving, so I started testing. I ended up spending all the day testing, and using up most of Dzenno's time as well.

We finally ended up with a very powerful E50 tune with clean logs, boosting ~20.5 psi midrange, ~19 psi at peak hp and ~17.5 psi near redline (6800 rpm). Neither of us could quite believe how powerful the runs looked for a full weight car with a heavy driver (250+ lbs), so on the last few runs I decided to put the Performance Box in the car to see it the road was indeed flat. It turned out there was a decline of just 0.09%

As a bonus I discovered that the car did 100-200 kmh in 7.07 seconds and 60-130 mph in just 8.18 seconds, in ONE gear (4th) on a flat road with crappy rear tyres. Now this would have also never happened if I hadn't had the defiv diff lockdown kit mounted, the rear end was just so planted, even in 30F temps and with crappy tyres.

I guess since I bought both my COBB AP and e-tune maps from PTF as well as my defiv diff lockdown kit in group buys in here, some credit to Bimmerboost is also in place :handgestures-thumb:

Cars specs are updated in the sig. I've attached a couple of pics. Sticky please resize if neccessary
Attached Images
  

Walnut Blasting, plugs, and bonus: rims

$
0
0
Decided to share my experience with some "maintenance mods" that I had done. First up is a very thorough walnut blasting, done by the friendly people over at Performance BMW in Chapel Hill, NC for a very fair price of $400.

Keeping carbon build-up is an important part of making sure your N54 / N55 is running smoothly, and will make a noticeable difference in how your car performs.


I've been running methanol in my car for about 20k miles, and while it has been decently good at keeping my valves clean, take a look at how they looked when we got her opened up:

Click here to enlargeClick here to enlarge


Aaaand the after:

Click here to enlarge
Click here to enlarge


The difference was immediate, but I couldn't really put the car through its paces because of the increasingly bad misfires I was having. Plugs were overdue. I bought a set of OE plugs for about $90 from the dealership, and a tool online for ~$20. An hour later:

Click here to enlarge


Long story short: between the walnut blasting and the new plugs, my car feels brand new. Well, better than brand new, because its modded. Basically, the car has never been smoother or more fun to drive. I HIGHLY recommend doing both of these relatively simple tasks when you hit 40k miles. Plugs should be every 10-20k miles, and walnut blasting every 30k-40k miles, depending on how hard your car is modded and how hard you drive.

Methanol and OCCs can also help extend the intervals for walnut blasting.



Bonus: New VMR701s

Click here to enlarge
Click here to enlarge





Cheers!
Attached Images
       

Snappety, Snap Snap!

$
0
0
Today, in my infinite wisdom and against all prudent judgement, I decided to replace injector number 3 this afternoon. This exercise is nothing new to me. I've done this two more times already.

So I get busy and then I managed to snap the ASA bolt that holds the injector bracket:

Click here to enlarge

I as able to make 2 complete turns of the bolt before it snapped off.

So this is a pretty messed up situation right now as cylinders 3 and 4 will have no compression at all. This means I can't drive the car.

My suspicion is that in the cold weather (4 degrees Centigrade) there was enough difference in contraction between the aluminium head and the steel ASA bolt. The bolt probably decided to dig in the head and carve a new thread in it. Then it got stuck and then I snapped it off.


Suggestions, opinions and ideas are highly appreciated at this point.

25k+ Tuned Miles on Stock Plugs

$
0
0
My plugs were first changed by the Dealer at 41k miles right before I bought my car. I installed my cobb within 5k miles upon purchase, and quickly went to stage 2+ after only a month or so at stage 1. Currently I have 71K miles and I easily have over 20k miles running ~40% e85 mixed with CA 91 octane. I never had a single misfire, but have PTF making a custom tune for me and felt like changing the plugs seeing as they had so many miles on them. For new plugs I went with the NGK 5992 ILZKBR7A-8G PTF recommends and so far so good. Car fired right up and pulls hard to redline. I need to take some logs and send them in to Jake so we can finish my Protune. The NGK 5992's were very easy to gap, and was my first time ever having to gap a spark plug. The only thing I forgot was I don't own a torque wrench so I wasn't able to torque the new plugs to the 17ft lbs your supposed to. So tomorrow I'll be buying a wrench needless to say. Old plugs look pretty good to me. Plugs from left to right are 6,5,4,3,2,1
Attached Images
  
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